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Section Hours: 106.2 Section Status: In-Work


Page 4
Step 1:  Cleco & final drill nutplates to the tank attach zees.  Countersink the nutplate attachment holes, prime the zees & rivet on the nutplates (I guess they figured section 18 had too many steps already, they just crammed a bunch of stuff into this one step instead of splitting them up as before ;-)

March 24, 2007:  After all pre-assembly final drilling of the tank, Angela began the tank disassembly by deburring the zees & one of the the baffles.




April 10, 2007: One of the last tank pre-assembly steps we did was countersink the nutplate attachment holes on the tank attachment zees yet.  We're going to alodine these the same time as the other parts, so the nutplates won't come until later.




May 11, 2007:  After alodining everything, and priming a few of the exterior pieces, we began the riveting with the zees.  We attached all the nutplates to the tank attachment zees.

Step 2:  Cleco & final drill the aft portion of the inboard rib (yep, it's in two parts).

March 20, 2007:  We clecoed the ribs, attachment bracket, and stiffeners in one of the skins, along with positioning the J-stiffener.




March 21, 2007:  We clecoed the second tank to the same point as the first.




March 22, 2007:  During the final drilling of all the other components, I final drilled the aft tank inboard rib to the tank attachment bracket and the tank inboard nose rib using a long #30 bit.
Step 3:  Cleco the tank baffle & zees to the ribs & final drill.

March 20, 2007:  We deburred the baffles with most of the other parts prior to pre assembly of the tanks.


March 21, 2007:  After the J-stiffeners were drilled I slipped the rear baffles in place and clecoed them in.  After that, the tank attachment zees were clecoed on.  Now, of course it wasn't until everything was clecloed in place that I realized there was this additional hole between two of the normally spaced rivet holes.  There's a matching hole in the skin, but its only on the lower surface.  A quick check of the rivet assignments and nothing is slated to go in this hole, but it just bothered me... so, I unclecoed the baffle from the second tank and turned it around so this hole would line up with its corresponding hole in the skin.



With the baffles correctly oriented and the zees all in place, I final drilled the zees to the baffles and ribs.

Step 4:  Cleco the tank baffles to the skins & final drill.

March 22, 2007:  During the rest of the pre-assembly final drilling I also drilled the skin to baffle holes.
Step 5:  Open all the screw holes in the skins up to #19.

March 22, 2007:  I used a #19 drill to open up the screw holes in the fuel tank skins.
Step 6:  Countersink the tank skin holes that attach to the baffle.

March 23, 2007:  Tonight I went through the monotonous task of countersinking the rear baffle to skin rivet holes.  These are the only skin holes to get countersunk, the rest get dimpled.  Although the plans don't specifically say it, I think its to ease the installation of the baffle when its sealed in place later during final assembly.  If the skins were dimpled it would be a real pain trying to squeeze the baffle into place between the upper & lower skins.




Here's that 'additional hole' I mentioned the other day.  I don't plan on using it so I didn't countersink it.

Step 7:  Label the zees for later reference.  Note: If you plan to use the capacitive senders offered in the Van's Catalog, install 'em now!

Labeled!  Also see Fuel Sender info below.
Step 8:  Disassemble, countersink the fuel cap flange holes, and dimple all the rest as needed/indicated.

March 24, 2007:  Here's a step the plans don't call out… final drilling the bearing used to attach the aileron torque tube to the tank attachment bracket.




Angela deburred the baffle's holes, and followed that up by deburring all the stiffener holes.




Then the rivet holes in the fuel cap flanges were countersunk in order to accept the dimples that will eventually be put in the skins.






March 29, 2007:  Angela deburred all the stiffener holes and then dimpled them.




April 1, 2007:  Here's another step the plans don't call for... I know the rivet holes in the rib for the finger strainer flange need to be final drilled.  So, I went ahead and clecoed the flanges in place & final drilled the flanges with the ribs, and then deburred.




April 6, 2007:  Continuing with the dimpling duties Angela spent a little time deburring and dimpling a few ribs.




April 7, 2007:  Deburred and dimpled a few more ribs.


April 10, 2007:  I wanted to get the last 5 ribs out of the skins, deburred, and dimpled, but didn't quite have the time to dimple them just yet… next time.




One last thing before quiting for the night, Angela came out and helped pull the good ole blue plastic off the skins… fun stuff!  I can't believe we even log time for this… but it does take time… bummer!  One thing I've found though… if you're doing it solo (which I did the last little bit), its much easier if you clamp the skin to your workbench.  It frees up both hands!


April 13, 2007:  We had some pretty nasty weather here in North Texas this evening.  So, what do you do to get your mind off of tornado sirens??  Well, dimple fuel tank ribs of course!  Ok, maybe it didn't happen like that… but Angela did dimple the remaining ribs.



I took on the task of deburring the skin holes… fun stuff… as usual :-(




April 18, 2007:  Tonight we dimpled everything left… lots o dimples!

Pre-Install of AE Fuel Guardian Sensors
Pre-Install of Fuel Return Fittings
Pre-Install of Fuel Senders
Step 9:  Prime except for anything internal.

April 20, 2007:  We're alodining everything internal to the tanks, and priming everything external.  Tonight I made a quick attempt to get everything ready for alodining.






April 22, 2007:  Today is alodine day.  Most builders leave the tank interior bare, but we're going the extra mile and alodining eveything.  Maybe its because of my history with rental aircraft and the amount of water I've seen in the fuel system.  It would be nice if I could say ours will be "perfect" and never see water... but yeah right.  So, like most of the other primer choices on the plane, it's a peace of mind thing.  Plus, there's the added bonus that the alodine will help the adheasion of the proseal.  One thing unique for us about the tanks is we're alodining the skins.  We haven't done this yet, so it was something new to figure out.  I tried the "brush on" method by laying the skin on our screen door we use for priming.  The challenge is keeping the skin wet while keeping yourself dry.  All in all, it was a little challenging maneuvering the skins with the winds.  But, it's all done now!




In hindsight, if we were to alodine skins again, I may search for another method, or at least technique.  The results were barely acceptable (by my standards at least).  The surface treatment is VERY uneven, which by itself is fine, but some areas appear as if they weren't touched at all.


May 11, 2007:  Last thing to do before riveting is to prime a bit.  I plan to prime the exterior of the ribs and baffle after the tanks are assembled.  However, there are some surfaces that are more easily accessible prior to assembly, and a couple of mating surfaces that I'd like to get some primer between.  So, the plan is to prime the bearings, the shims, and the tank attachment zees.  In the pic you can see the tape attached to each zee where it will be prosealed to the baffles.


After mixing up the primer, and while waiting through it's 'induction period', I brushed some on the tank brackets where the shims and bearings attach.  Why didn't I spray these?  I didn't feel like taking the time to mask off the portion of these brackets that are internal to the tank (you don't want primer inside the tanks... could flake off and clog the fuel lines)


And hears a shot of one of the zees after priming showing the "primer free" bonding area ;-)  On another note… the reason I wanted to prime these things now is because once these things are attached to the baffles it will be next to impossible to prime the underside of the flange with the nutplates (the surface my thumb is on).




June 1, 2007:  Ok, I admit, I gave in… I didn't like the way the tank skins came out so I decided to sand them down and re-alodine.  I didn't scuff them the first time, and… yada, yada, yada… I'm now more satisfied with the finish, so we're good to go.  Done!



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