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Section Hours: 106.2 Section Status: In-Work


Page 2
We're taking a different approach to this section.  We plan to debur every part before pre-assembly.  That way once we start assembling we just keep rolling with it.
Step 1:  Flute, adjust & straighten all the ribs.

February 21, 2007: While we were waiting for decent weather to open up the garage to prime the leading edge parts, Angela got to work straightening & fluting the tank ribs.




February 23, 2007:  While we were waiting on the weather to allow us to get outside and prime the Leading edge parts I continued working on the tanks.  So, I picked up where Angela left off and continued deburring the ribs.




February 24, 2007:  I spent a bit more time today on the tank ribs.  I was against the clock as we had plans for the night.  Didn't quite get them done… they're close though… maybe next time.


February 25, 2007:  Ok, so the wind is still blowing like crazy around here so alodining/priming the leading edge parts was a no-go until later on tonight.  So, I finished up deburring the tank ribs.  I decided to take it a step further as well and scuff all of them.  Again, I'm kind of disappointed in the number of scratches in these things… 3 of the ribs had some pretty good gouges in them.  We didn't see anything like this in the empennage kit... oh well... hope it doesn't become a trend!



March 18, 2007:  After fluting a few of the ribs a little while ago it became apparent our fluting pliers weren't going to cut it.  So, we got a new pair.  Here you can see the difference.




And here's the issue… Up until now, the wide flutes have fit between the rivet holes in the flanges of the ribs.  The fuel tank ribs have holes that are much closer together on the flanges.  So close in fact that the flutes do not leave enough room to fit a dimple die in between (this pic shows our small diameter dimple die)  If we tried to dimple the rivet holes like this, it would gouge the inside of the flanges pretty good.  The upper rib in the picture was done with the newer pliers.  Its fairly obvious the dimple die will have no problem fitting in there!

Step 2:  Trim the tank stiffeners and vent line clip.

February 23, 2007:  While I was deburring ribs Angela came out for a little while and separated the tank stiffeners.  These originally come in the kit as 7 pieces.  They're pre-punched to show where to split them, and then cut to the shape you see here.  Once it's all said and done there are 28 of these guys.

Step 3:  Trim the tank attach Zees.

March 18, 2007:  After Angela finshed up the vent tube brackets she tackled the tank attachment zees.  Like the stiffeners, these came in "sticks" that needed to be separated.





I took over the zees while Angela started on dinner… Here they are all deburred and ready to go.  These will be riveted to the rear of the fuel tanks and are what attach the tanks to the main wing spar.

Step 4:  Fabricate the tank J-stiffeners.

March 20, 2007:  I cut the J-stiffeners & deburred them prior to pre assembly of the tanks.
Step 5:  Cleco & final drill the tank stiffeners & drain flange in the tank skins.  Trim the inboard stiffeners.

March 20, 2007:   I deburred the edges and 'non-rivet' holes of the skins with most of the other parts prior to pre assembly of the tanks.




See page 4 step 2 for more.


March 21, 2007:  I clecoed the fuel drain flange to the bottom of each tank during their full pre-assembly.




March 22, 2007:  The last thing I did during the pre-assembly final drilling was to final drill the skins to the tank stiffeners.  The most inboard of these on the lower surface get an extra hole drilled in them.


March 24, 2007:  Ok, here's the explanation for the extra hole…  the inboard rivet holes of the inboard most stiffeners don't line up with the holes in the tank skins (intentionally).  Instead, the tank skins had a hole that needed to be match drilled into the stiffeners as can be seen in the pic.  From this 'new' hole a mark is made 1/4".  The stiffeners will be trimmed at this mark.  The purpose for this is so the stiffeners will have a gap between them and the inboard rib on the lower skin.  This provides a channel for water that may be present in the fuel to migrate to the rear, where the drain is located.

Step 6:  Cleco (most of) the ribs into the skins & final drill.

See page 4 step 2.


March 22, 2007:  After the full pre-assembly of the tanks I set out to get all the final drilling done.  I mostly stuck with the order in the plans to ensure I got everything.  First up was match drilling the skins to the ribs.


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