(Rudder Cable Fairing Covers):
We debated on how to put these on, which consequently dictates
when we can put them on. These fairings give a more cosmetic look
to the aft area of the rear fuselage where the rudder cables exit the
side skins. Without them you would just see a plastic tube
sticking out the side of the fuselage, so it's quite common for
builders to add these to cover the tube and opening.
Traditionally they are attached with just solid or pop rivets.
Doing it this way means you have to install them after the rudder
cables since the end piece on the rudder cable won't fit through the
opening once they are installed. The rudder cables aren't
installed until we get to the fuselage. We could wait, but we'd
like to not use rivets in these guys incase we ever need to pull the
rudder cables out for some reason... shouldn't have to but who
knows. Anyway, I liked fellow RV-10 builder CJ's idea of
attaching them with screws so Angela & I decided to go that
route. Here you can see the covers... on the left is the way they
came from Avery Tools (other suppliers carry them as well). On
the right shows how I cut them down... just looks better in my opinion.
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Next
I eyeballed a centerline point on the front and rear portion of the
cover. The pitch angle of the longerons on the side skins are
parallel to the direction of flight, and the longitudinal axis of the
rudder cable openings in the skins pretty much parallel this. So,
I plan to line up the centerline of the covers parallel also. I
measured down from the top edge of the side skins and drew a line
through the center of the opening that parallels the longerons.
After that I drew a perpendicular line along the rear edge of the
opening, and then another ~1/4" behind that. This was used to
locate the rear edge of the cover. I then marked 4 hole locations
on the covers and drilled 3/32" pilot holes. After that I used
the marks on the skins to clamp the covers in place and then finally
match drilled the holes into the skins.
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After
that I pulled the covers off and drilled the mounting holes for the
nutplates. The screw holes will get dimpled for #6 screws and the
nutplate holes will get drilled for AD3 flush rivets. Now,
hopefully we got the fore/aft position correct… but I'm not to
worried about it, looks like is should workout ok.
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(10-15 step 4): Just a little more Page 10-15 Step 4 left!!! Not too much deburring left… Finished deburring the left side skin...
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(10-16 step 3): Next
up I scuffed the inside of the skin and cleaned it. Now it was
time to dimple the skins. Once these babies are done, it's time
to prime!
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